New Mexico ADV loop - Day 3
BikeBoy October 17, 2026We camped last night at Three Rivers forest service campground; we met up with Anna, who was an hour or so ahead of us, having gone on her own canyoneering adventures to the west. The wind was crazy, and it was cold — we could barely set up camp, and then had to figure out how to cook pizza!

The gusts after dinner threatened to knock the tent flat; I could feel the end of the tent trying to lift up, only my feet were holding it down. Fortunately the wind abated around 2 am, and we could get a little sleep before the sun came up. Will’s bike had frost on the seat, so it was definitely quite chilly!
There was a huge cloud bank spilling over the mountains behind us, although we were fortunately in the sunshine. It made for some spectacular views as we had our coffee and breakfast.
Due to a flat tire on my bike discovered as we pulled into the petroglyphs site, we didn't have time to actually wander around and look at the petroglyphs. Changing the tube went reasonably smoothly, but it's just a lot of work and takes some time. We got it done, and then Anna left for home while Will and I headed to Alamogordo for a new tube for me, and chain lube for us both, and some fuel line for Will.

We then rode up to Cloudcroft where we got a room at the “Crofters Inn / Under New Management” B&B. The owner is 83 and lives in Texas, and is charming but flakey. We had booked through Expedia when we were in Alamogordo, and hadn’t received any confirmation by the time we arrived. There were two phone numbers on the front door; one didn’t work but the other did. We asked about a two-bed option, and she offered that she did have one, for $50 more… she directed us to room #1 upstairs, but there was no key in the lock… She sent Will down to the laundry room, where there were keys to be found. That got us in, only to find that there were indeed two twin beds, but one had been slept in, and there were used coffee cups and trash in the bins; also an adjoining double, also slept in. The owner was most confused, apparently “Safphire” is the gal on the ground, and communications were lacking. Will persuaded her to let us make up the bed, so we’d have a roof for the night (but no negotiations over the state of the room took place.)

We got our stuff unloaded and took some well-earned showers, then headed to the “Western Saloon” for grub and drinks. We might have gone further, but this time of year the pickings are slim and the temps are low, and this place was close! Some locals, some visitors, lots of dollar bills hanging from ceiling and walls.

By the time we left, it was even windier and colder, we were lucky enough to survive the trek back! A nice kitty came out to say hi, fortunately it had a thick coat of warm fur and didn’t seem to be put out by the wintry conditions.
Mileage for the day: 71 (but it felt like more, with the flat tire!)
Trip mileage: 333
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